fitting-a-new-speedometer-cableCar Components Accessories 

How to install a new speedometer cable

Failure of the speedometer may be due to a malfunction of the cable behind the speed meter of the faulty gearbox. If the gauge pin does not move, the internal cable or drive may be broken, or the square end of the cable may become rounded and worn, unable to participate in the socket. The end of the attachment can be loose or the wrong installation work.

If the gauge needle swings or moves sluggishly, gearbox oil may have seeped up the cable and got into the speedometer itself. In that case, you must replace the speedometer.

If the needle is spinning quickly, see if the cable is crushed, bent, or bent too sharply. Intermittent seizures may be caused by loosely connected or cable worn and sliding ends.

A tapping noise is a sign of a damaged drive or lack of lubrication.

Check these shortcomings of the cable to support the vehicle safety shaft or ramps.

Disconnecting and checking the cable

disconnecting-and-checking-the-cable
Disconnect the cable from the speedometer and check for loose fittings and worn drive ends.

First look over the whole length of the outer cable to see if the casing is broken anywhere.

Make sure that the cable follows a smoothly curved route and is not kinked or crushed. There should be no bend within 50mm of either end. Bends elsewhere should have a radius of not less than 150mm.

On some cars, guide clips hold the cable in place. Make sure that it has not worked loose.

A roulette nut, retainer, or forked plate that connects the cable to the gearbox.

Unscrew a thimble nut with your fingers, starting it with large grips if necessary. Squeeze a circlip free with circlip pliers.

A single screw holds a forked retaining plate. Unscrew it.

The top end of the cable is harder to reach. If you cannot reach it, remove the speedometer or the instrument panel.

The top connection is a knurled thimble nut, or one of several types of clip. Most clips release when they are pushed in and turned sideways; one type has a ribbed area on one side, which you depress to release the clip.

Examine the square ends of the drive for wear and check that the fixings are sound.

Turn one end of the drive by hand while a helper watches the other end. If the other end does not turn, the drive is broken. If the drive turns stiffly or you feel it snagging, check that it is not kinked or crushed by a sharp bend or a guide clip.

If one end of the drive moves in a circle instead of revolving on the spot, the drive is kinked.

If the drive seems undamaged but is generally stiff, it may need lubrication.

Pull the drive out of the casing, clean the drive with petrol, smear it sparingly with grease and slide it back.

Some inner cables, however, have captive ends and you cannot pull them out. In that case, feed light oil between the cable and outer sheath.

Fitting the new cable assembly

fitting-the-new-cable-assembly
Use a thin screwdriver to ease the flange of the grommet through the bulkhead opening. Fit the cable into the guide clips without pinching or kinking it.

Locate and release all guide clips and lever the rubber grommet cable through the bulkhead. The cable into the cabin.

Once again check that you need a new cable. Repeat the test to see if the drive is bent; or exit the drive and roll it on a flat surface. Put the cable in the “U” type 230 mm wide. Put the end of the car. It should be smooth in the casing without catching.

Sometimes you can update the driver, but now manufacturers tend to supply only the complete cable. In any case, old cables are part of the store to make sure the new ones are the same. It is a good idea to buy a new gearbox oil seal at the same time.

Pushing new high-end cables through bulkheads. Use a thin screwdriver to relieve the ring.

Convert the cable into the guide video. Some clips with marked points should be incorporated into the clip. They are a useful check for your routing cable correctly.

In any case, make sure the smooth route is curved. Add extra clips or bands only they really need. Make sure clips are not compressed or cables.

To adapt to new gearbox oil seals, leverage old screwdrivers and new media to secure its seats.

Refit the lower drive connection, taking care that the square drive end is engaged. Tighten a thimble nut only finger tight, and be careful not to cross-thread it.

The top connection is slightly harder to refit, because it is more difficult to get the second end of the drive engaged.

Refit the speedometer if you had to remove it, and test it by taking the car on a short run.

Cable connections into the gearbox

Speedometer cable connections to the gearbox fall mainly into three types.

The knurled thimble-but connection is threaded inside, and screws on to the gearbox speedometer outlet – which is also threaded – up to the shoulder.

Retaining ring cable and meet the recess in the gearbox output of the sleeve, the protection of two.

Fork connection – An older type is

sleeve-connection
A knurled thumble nut screws on to a threaded outlet.
circlip-connection
A circlip on the cable fits into an outlet.
fork-connection
The cable end is held by a shaped fork.

just a fork in the shape of the gearbox and the cable terminal passes through the spring pressure. It is due to a screw.

fork-connection
The cable end is held by a shaped fork.
sleeve-connection
A knurled thumble nut screws on to a threaded outlet.
circlip-connection
A circlip on the cable fits into an outlet.